The world of culinary delights is vast, but some ingredients and recipes spark more passion and debate than others. Enter the charismatic Charlie Hicks, a fruit and veg supplier extraordinaire, who inspired countless chefs and food enthusiasts with his knowledge and produce. This is the story of a man who left an indelible mark on the culinary scene, as told through the lens of a unique salad.
Rachel Roddy, a renowned food writer, introduces us to Charlie Hicks, a regular on the BBC Radio 4 show, Veg Talk. Sheila Dillon, a fellow broadcaster, recounts how Charlie's expertise and personality led to the creation of the show, which ran from 1998 to 2005. Charlie's segment, a market report, was a highlight, offering insights into the world of fresh produce. The show also featured a 'Vegetable of the Week' and welcomed renowned chefs like Angela Hartnett, Alastair Little, Rose Gray, Darina Allen, and Mitch Tonks, who shared their culinary wisdom.
But here's where it gets controversial. Despite its popularity, Veg Talk had its critics. Broadcaster Andy Kershaw's harsh words in a 2005 interview sparked debate: 'This show should have been strangled at birth.' Yet, the show boasted a dedicated fan base, captivated by Charlie's lifetime of experience and his ability to blend practical knowledge with a scholarly approach. His sharp humor and warm voice made him a beloved figure.
The late cooking teacher and gardener, Carla Tomasi, provides another piece of the Charlie puzzle. In the 1980s, Charlie supplied produce to Carla's restaurant, Frith's in Soho. Carla relied on his excellent sourcing, especially for her Roman-inspired dishes. He brought her a treasure trove of ingredients, including bitter greens, blood oranges, and the star of this story: puntarelle.
Puntarelle, a member of the chicory family, is the catalyst for Rachel's connection with Charlie. Its unique appearance—an elongated head of lettuce with dark, serrated outer leaves and pale green, succulent inner tubes—is a sight to behold. Rachel and Charlie's conversation about puntarelle, and its Roman preparation, is a culinary journey in itself.
The recipe Rachel shares is a tribute to Charlie, combining puntarelle, radicchio, celery, apple, and cheese. It's a celebration of flavors and textures, with a dressing of olive oil, vinegar, honey, and a hint of salt. The preparation is an art, from trimming the puntarelle to curling the inner tubes in cold water, creating a dish that honors Charlie's legacy.
And this is the part most people miss: the outer leaves of puntarelle, often discarded, can be a brilliant addition to salads, especially when paired with sweeter elements like apple or persimmon. This recipe is a testament to Charlie's influence, showing how a simple salad can become a culinary masterpiece.
So, do you agree that Charlie Hicks and his produce were a culinary treasure? What are your thoughts on the controversial opinions surrounding Veg Talk? Share your culinary memories and opinions in the comments, and let's celebrate the art of food together!
